We wrote about the Exhilaration of Swimming Along The High Seas yesterday and the joy of swimming right along the crest of large crashing waves.

Paul Bales asked a question about recommendations on how to swim out and then back in through the surf. He said, “I only know how to dive under when I’m entering the surf while I’m still standing on the bottom. Exiting seems to be more of a precise timing thing.”

Timing is absolutely correct.

As we wrote yesterday, “As you swim parallel to the shore along the crest of the waves – that come every between 15-20 seconds – the threat of huge waves pounding down on you serves to keep you extraordinarily aware of the ocean conditions and everything around you. Your focus on remaining in the right position is constantly on high alert because getting pounded by the waves is dangerous with a risk of injury. But such a focused kinetic training literally forces your entire body and mind to be in tune with the raging ocean.”

The following cover ten general recommendations for safely getting in and out of heavy surf.

Step One – Onshore Observation

The first step is to observe the wave patterns of the ocean as you stand onshore. Watch how the sets come in and the direction in which the waves come in and the backwash goes out. Watch the ocean long enough so you can understand the intervals between waves and timing between the normal sets, the smaller sets, and larger sets of waves.

Step Two – Warm-up Timing of Your Entry

After you have become familiar with the behavior of the surf, stretch and warm-up as you can onshore, so you can head out during an interval when there are smaller sets. This not only gives you an opportunity to get out beyond the waves while not having to deal with the largest sets of waves, but also gives you an opportunity to warm up while swimming and getting accustomed to the dynamics of the ocean.

Step Three – Timing of Your Entry

As you swim out, make sure that you are well prepared to alternatively swim fast between waves and dive deeply enough under the surface of the water so you are not pushed back. This requires a significant amount of aerobic endurance. When the surf gets higher than 10 feet (3+ meters), it can take 10, 15, 20 minutes to get beyond the surfline.

Step Four – Swim Quickly, Sight Frequently

As you swim between the waves, kick hard enough to swim quickly and frequently lift up your head to check out the next oncoming waves. Absolutely (!) keep in mind where the crashing surf is; never lose sight of the next few waves.

Step Five – Breathe Deeply, Dive Deeply

As the next wave approaches you, take a few deep breaths as you swim head-up freestyle as you mentally get prepared to take on the oncoming wave. If necessary, stop and take a few deep breaths as you eggbeater in the ocean – and then dive deeply under the wave.

You can feel the power of the swell as it pushes against and over you. Do not dive shallowly. The deeper that you dive under the wave, the less resistance you will face.

If you are near the ocean floor, you can grab the bottom and hold on. Then push off the bottom at an angle towards the surface with your feet.

Do not stay too long under the water because you do not want to pop up and then immediately have to face another wave.

Dan Simonelli advises, “Breath control is everything. Stay relaxed, always focused on your breathing. Never go anaerobic. Maintaining breath control is the difference between having fun in big waves and sucking air and getting in trouble.”

Step Five – Streamline and Kick Underwater

As you dive under the water, either dolphin kick or freestyle kick with your arms extended tightly over your head and your upper arms pressed against your ears. Streamline as best you can so you can cover as much distance under the water as possible. If you keep your arms at your sides, it is much less efficient when you pop back up to the surface.

Step Six – Keep Moving

You have to keep moving quickly between the sets – combining sprint freestyle, head-up freestyle, diving, holding your breath, kicking vigorously, and streamlining between waves so you can get out beyond the surfline as quickly as possible.

Step Seven – Reaching Your Limits

If you start to tire and the surf is simply too much to handle, turn around and head to shore. Try another day or rest a bit and try again. There is no shame is turning around in large surf. In fact, it is often the best thing to do. You can stand back on shore and see what you have faced. Rest and try again – or walk down to another point along the beach.

Step Eight – Coming Back In

The same general rules apply. Wait for a smaller set of waves to head back in. Once you make your decision to return to shore, make a definitive decision and do not hesitate.

Step Nine – Swim Quickly to Shore

Swim quickly between sets as you head to shore, always looking behind you or doing a few strokes of backstroke so you know exactly where the oncoming waves are.

Step Ten – Use the Power of the Ocean

If you cannot bodysurf the waves into shore, dive under the waves and allow the power of the waves to push you closer to shore. Pop up quickly and always look behind you, for the next wave and for any surfers or windsurfers.

Continue to the closest point on shore and then stand back and relish in your experience.

© 2023 Daily News of Open Water Swimming

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